Lot 72C
Southern Africa, South Africa, Zulu people, ca. 1890s CE. A finely constructed late 19th century Zulu beaded neck ornament, composed of alternating vertical panels of black, white, green, and red glass trade beads strung on fiber, bordered by rows of pale pink and turquoise beads, and secured with a cowrie shell clasp. The necklace is designed as a continuous collar of rectangular, fringe-like panels, its rhythmic arrangement creating a striking visual effect when worn. Known as iziqu, such beaded collars originated as medallions of war, worn in a crisscross formation across the shoulders by warriors as symbols of bravery. Before the introduction of European glass beads through Portuguese trade, Zulu beadwork was made from natural materials such as wood, seeds, and berries. By the late 19th century, glass beads had become an important medium, both for their vibrant color range and their prestige as a traded luxury. Size: 45" L x 2.8" W (114.3 cm x 7.1 cm)
In Zulu society, beadwork serves as a form of communication, signaling wealth, status, and personal relationships. Color and pattern combinations could convey clan identity, marital status, or courtship messages, though their meaning varied regionally and required insider knowledge to interpret. This piece's color arrangement - white, black, green, and red - aligns with documented umzansi and isinyolovane schemes, which could reference clan affiliations or aesthetic ideals of perfection and charm. Worn during ceremonies, dances, and significant life events, such ornaments were equally valued as personal adornment and as potent symbols of social and cultural identity. This example's age, near complete form, and rich palette reflect the artistry and communicative depth of historic Zulu beadwork traditions.
Provenance: Ralph T. Coe Center for the Arts, Santa Fe, New Mexico, USA, acquired in 2010 via descent; ex-private collection of Ralph T. Coe, Santa Fe, New Mexico, USA, purchased in August 2003; ex-Taylor Dale Gallery, Santa Fe, New Mexico, USA; ex-Scottish collection, acquired during the Boer War period
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#196390
- Condition: Five panels are missing a few beads with twine loose in areas. Some fraying to string allowing for possible shedding of loose beads. String could be easily repaired to allow for wear.
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