Lot 165
Europe, Victorian to Neoclassical period, ca. 19th to early 20th century CE. A graceful collection of twelve antique jewelry items, each piece an ode to classical beauty and 19th-century craftsmanship. The ensemble is anchored by a brooch of copper-silver-gold alloy bearing a large carved bone cameo of a youthful figure in Phrygian cap, a motif associated with liberty and ancient heroic ideals. Complementing this is a 15 karat gold brooch with a delicate shell cameo of Diana, goddess of the hunt, rendered with flowing drapery and crescent moon tiara. A 13.3 karat gold brooch-pendant hybrid presents a shell cameo bust of a serene woman in profile, while a rare 18.6 karat gold bezel frames a lava cameo of Dionysus crowned in ivy, a nod to the Grand Tour's passion for Roman antiquity. Size of largest brooch: 2.3" L x 2" W (5.8 cm x 5.1 cm); of necklace chain: 13.6" L (34.5 cm); of bracelet: 7.4" L (18.8 cm); gold quality: 2.2 to 77.6% (up to 18.6 karats)
A shell cameo of a female bust rests in an openwork gilt brass clip decorated with vegetal scrolls, and a finely molded milk glass cameo of Helen of Troy adorns a brass ring set in a soft lead-tin alloy bezel and six lustrous glass insets. Also included are a pink and white shell cameo pendant in 13.8 karat gold, a molded pink glass cameo pendant in gilt brass, and a glass cameo of a female figure in a brass bezel. A necklace features a locket adorned with a black and white glass cameo, bordered by spherical glass beads. Completing the group are a silvered brass bracelet set with five pink and white shell cameos and a silvered brass stick pin. These pieces span a range of materials and sentiments, unified by a shared Neoclassical language of feminine beauty, mythological homage, and Victorian romanticism.
Provenance: private Dallas, Texas, USA collection, acquired between 1970 and 2015
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#195276
- Condition: Pink cameo is detached from bezel. Diana cameo has break on one side with loss to leaf decoration and pin. Lava cameo has loss to top of bezel. Others are all intact and wearable. Nice remaining detail and light patina throughout.
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